back, all-around flare or soft
pleats, as it does need fullness.
Don’t attempt a too straight skirt
because it will sag eventually.

BASTE (for the beginner) and
try garment on for the final alter-
ations, then machine-stitch. It is
much easier taking out basting
than it is machine stitching! But
as time goes along, you will be
able to judge fairly accurately
and stitch garment up in stages,
without basting each piece. But
for facings on collars, cuffs or
any place where you have to turn
back edge, you must baste. It is
the only way to get a neat finish.
At the time it seems like a great
deal of bother but in the end
you won't be sorry.

IMPORTANT THAT YOU
PRESS as you go along. Press
each seam and dart as you stitch
garment, then it will never have
that home-made look! Steam
irons are wonderful. Get one, if
possible.

HAND FINISHING should
be done carefully and completely
finished! No leaving off buttons,
etc., and ending up with pins. It
can prove quite embarrassing. I
have learned my lesson.

TO ENSURE AN EVEN
TURN of all shaped edges—
curved, such as patch pockets,
scallops, etc. —run a row of
machine stitching approximately
1-16 inch outside the seam allow-
ance.

IN STITCHING along the
edges of suits and coats to hold
facings and hems secure until
final completion, use silk thread
in preference to cotton to prevent
the garment from remaining per-
manently marked with the
thread, under pressure of the
iron in pressing. |

25

IN CUTTING OUT silks,
jerseys, rayons or crepes, use
paper beneath the material. Press
pattern, place it on material and
pin pattern, material and paper
together. This keeps material
from crawling and having jagged
edges when cut.

FOR THAT DRAPED EF-
FECT on a suit with soft full-
ness at the bust line do this: At
the stage where shoulder seams,
side seams, facing and interfac-
ing are sewn in, take firm grip
of shoulder seam at neckline and
top of lapel and stretch. Then
steam press (easing in) approxi-
mately 4 inches above and below
waistline at centre front.

FOR HEM: Let it hang over-
night to allow for sagging and
then always mark up from the
floor as it is the only way to get
the hem even. Don’t draw your
stitches too tightly when hem-
ming.

THE FINAL PRESSING can
do amazing things. Don’t get too
discouraged until your sewing is
absolutely completed. It is sur-
prising what a difference it can
make to have the proper acces-
sories, etc., and your face on!

A WHITE MANICURE PEN-
CIL is a good marker for dark
material when cutting out a
dress. The pencil should be mois-
tened.

WHEN ADJUSTING SNAP
FASTENERS to a garment, try
sewing the ball section on first
and then covering the tops of
them with chalk. The slightest
pressure will mark the exact
spots where the sockets should
be placed.